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When assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end names. However, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says a family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.